Venice’s flood sirens sing, piercing by the early morning fog. Steel bulkheads are in place, securing retailers and grocery shops. Wood walkways sneak by calli and salizade – our streets. Locals sport emergency rubber boots. These are routine acqua alta (excessive water) preparations. However on three October, for the primary time in our metropolis’s historical past, all of it was superfluous. The Adriatic waters which have been each curse and lifeblood to town have been held again. As Tommaso, a Venetian gondolier, exclaimed in dialect acquainted to me from childhood (I grew up close by): “Xe un miracoo!” – It’s a miracle.

However removed from being proof of divine windfall, this contemporary parting of the waters is the work of Mose, or Experimental Electromechanical Module, an built-in system of coastal obstacles and cellular dykes designed to guard the Venice lagoon from distinctive acque alte as much as three metres above regular sea ranges. It has been lengthy within the making: development – and controversy – began again in 2003, after a long time of deliberations and assessments following the damaging tide of four November 1966, so far the very best on document.

Additionally it is the most recent in a string of successes for the centre-left Italian authorities led by Giuseppe Conte, the college professor and jurist first chosen because the nation’s unlikely prime minister in 2018. Conte had held no political workplace earlier than, and was broadly seen as a weak, technocratic determine, favoured just for being a compromise between the populist 5 Star Motion and the far-right League.

Quick-forward to 2020 and Conte is now the preferred politician in Italy, surpassing Matteo Salvini, chief of the League and fan of Donald Trump. The rationale? Conte is offering a modicum of efficient authorities to a inhabitants starved of political competency, and he’s being rewarded accordingly. The populist, far-right Salvini has been crushed the place it hurts: on substance.

Like many Italians, I’m considerably bewildered. Italy is normally portrayed as a land of untold magnificence and appeal, fated to be ruled by corrupt, grasping, incompetent politicians. However in 2020 now we have first been praised by pundits worldwide as a beacon of collective civility for our response to Covid-19. Then, our nation performed an necessary half within the renewed European style for federalism by lobbying onerous for – and acquiring – a typical restoration fund. A smooth nationalisation of Italian highways easily concluded the tragic saga of the Morandi bridge collapse. And now, an enormous public infrastructure challenge has been efficiently dropped at completion. Fiercely criticising our nation – besides after we win at soccer – is our favorite nationwide sport. Along with carefree hugging and kissing, might that quickly even be taken from us?

Not so quick. The variety of individuals testing optimistic for Covid-19 is now steadily rising in Italy, too. Italian affect over EU politics remains to be restricted: eurobonds couldn’t have occurred with out German chancellor Angela Merkel’s change of thoughts. Italian motorways are crumbling after years of scandalous underfunding. And the Mose system itself was a quintessentially Italian infrastructure challenge: spiraling prices, corruption expenses and prolonged delays.

When commenting on Mose, the mayor of Venice, Luigi Brugnano, was at first laconic: “The Mose is secure,” he mentioned and we stay on standby, however for now we’re happy.” Though he did be a part of within the celebrations, his preliminary reticence is comprehensible. Mose ended up costing greater than thrice the unique estimate – €5.5bn (£5bn) towards €1.6bn. It was meant to have been accomplished by 2011, and but the ultimate checks will solely be finished in 2021.

On high of that, 36 politicians, judges, businessmen and technicians have been arrested on corruptions expenses associated to Mose in 2014. Maybe much more worryingly, some consultants doubt the system shall be resilient sufficient to face rising sea ranges brought on by the local weather disaster.

And but, its troublesome gestation however, Mose could be very a lot delivering: town is dry. Pigeons harass the few hapless vacationers for crumbs in San Marco sq.. The Basilica, a wondrous commixture of Byzantine, Islamic and Catholic artwork, is safe.

In a mystical coincidence, on the identical day the famend Italian conductor Riccardo Muti led an inspiring and emotive Live performance for Dante in Rome. The Italian president, Sergio Mattarella, launched it by paying tribute to the outdated grasp: this yr marks the 700th anniversary of The Divine Comedy. It might be troublesome to overestimate the affect Dante’s work nonetheless has on Italian tradition and society.

He wrote that “the trail to paradise begins in hell”. That aptly describes each the troublesome genesis of Mose, in addition to the shocking Italian renaissance we’re witnessing. Regardless of its imperfections and contradictions, the centre-left authorities of Conte is exhibiting the world that Italy generally is a dependable and efficient accomplice. At instances even an inspiration. And, simply possibly, the way in which Salvini has been stymied hints at a blueprint for coping with far-right extremism. On the very least, after virtually a yr of Dantesque purgatory, allow us to hope that 2021 brings, if not precisely paradise, one thing resembling regular life.

Gianmarco Raddi is a molecular biologist and a scholar physician on the College of Cambridge